Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to ancient Chinese culture with its new Métiers d’Art.
The Métiers d’Art – Tribute to traditional symbols series offers a journey into the history and culture of China’s last two Imperial dynasties, from the 14th to the early 20th centuries. To immerse itself in the distinctive decor of this period, the Maison took a particular interest in the decorative arts and notably in the “Seawater Cliff” motif omnipresent on courtly architectural elements, but also on furniture and porcelain, as well as on imperial clothing and particularly the so-called ‘dragon’ robes. These richly embroidered silk ceremonial garments conveyed distinctive symbolism according to their motifs.
For this research work, the Maison benefited from the advice of Mr. Song, the Former Associate Research Librarian of Palace Museum housed in Beijing’s Forbidden City. In agreement with this expert in Chinese history and symbolism, studies on the dials of the four Métiers d’Art limited editions focused on the “Seawater Cliff” motif. Extensively documented by Mr. Song, this depiction features a mountain towering above the tides with their ebb and flow lashing its cliffs. Embroidered on the lower hem and cuffs of the robe, this ornamentation was regarded as auspicious for those who wore it.
A cultural tribute
Although water and mountains inspired the decoration of various artefacts in China as early as the Neolithic period – and were represented in an increasingly figurative way throughout the first millennium AD – the combination of the two came later. It was with the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties that the motif really took shape. Officially named “Seawater Cliff” under Emperor Wanli (1573-1620), it was reserved for the Imperial family. As its name suggests, this motif refers to the sea, its tides represented by long undulating lines that come crashing down in powerful surges against the cliff. Symbolising the emperor’s immutability faced with the vagaries of life, these overhanging mountain cliffs are unaffected by the waves.
In Chinese, the words ‘tide’ and ‘dynasty’ are homonyms, while the word ‘cliff’ can also mean ‘ginger buds’ – of which one can recognise the outline on the edge of this escarpment overlooking the sea. In Chinese tradition, water and mountains are also strong territorial symbols. With this “Seawater Cliff” motif richly emblazoned on his ceremonial robes the emperor embodied stability. Like the unshakeable cliff above the waves, a symbol of peace and longevity, he was the guarantor of the country’s fortune and prosperity. This motif became very popular and spread across all social classes in furniture, sculpture, decorative objects and architecture.
Interview with Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director –
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art series often draw inspiration from history and ancient civilisations, as is the case with this new series. Is there any particular reason behind this?
As Vacheron Constantin explains, these Métiers d’Art series celebrate decorative techniques applied to watchmaking and jewellery, while inspired by art, history and culture. The interesting thing about history is that ancient civilisations reached an extreme level of sophistication in decorative techniques. Often, some of these techniques have even gradually vanished with the industrialisation and digitalisation of our societies. It’s up to a Maison like Vacheron Constantin, which is strongly committed to preserving artistic craftsmanship, to highlight these techniques by drawing inspiration from the most accomplished creations in this field. In the case of this Tribute to traditional symbols series, the main focus was on embroidery work. By reproducing these ancient motifs on a watch dial, the Maison’s teams and artisans are obliged to demonstrate creativity in order to preserve the spirit of the motifs, while at the same time shining a spotlight on these incredibly rich Imperial garments, symbols of a key period in Chinese history.
